Why Lucca, Italy Is the Best Kept Secret in Tuscany
Tuscany is one of the most visited regions in Europe. Florence, Siena, Cinque Terre, Pisa — all magnificent, all deservedly famous, and all, in peak season, overwhelmingly crowded.
Lucca is different.
Tucked into the northern Tuscan hills just 30 minutes from Pisa and 1.5 hours from Florence, Lucca is one of the finest medieval cities in Italy — and one of the least talked about. It has intact Renaissance-era city walls wide enough to walk and cycle along, 100 churches packed into four square miles, one of the most architecturally unique piazzas in Europe built directly on the footprint of a Roman amphitheater, and a food and art scene that rivals cities three times its size.
Most Tuscany itineraries skip it entirely. That’s a mistake — and it means Lucca retains something increasingly rare in Italian tourism: a genuine local atmosphere undiluted by mass tourism.
This is the guide to doing it right.
A Brief History of Lucca
Lucca’s history stretches back to 180 BC when it was established as a Roman colony at the junction of roads connecting Parma, Florence, Rome, and Pisa — a position that made it one of the most strategically important trading cities in northern Italy.
The city served as the capital of Tuscany until the 10th century, when the capital was relocated to Florence. Lucca subsequently spent centuries as an independent republic — one of the few Italian cities to successfully resist conquest by larger neighbors — a fact that shaped its fiercely independent character and its extraordinary architectural heritage.
The walls surrounding the city have existed in various forms since its founding, but the remarkable Renaissance fortifications visible today were built throughout the 1500s and 1600s — some of the best-preserved city walls in Europe and the experience that defines a visit to Lucca.
Getting to Lucca, Italy on a Budget
From Florence — 1.5 hours, from €9
Direct trains run from Florence Santa Maria Novella to Lucca in approximately 1.5 hours. Tickets start from around €9 booked in advance at trenitalia.com. Trains run regularly throughout the day making it one of the most flexible day trips from Florence.
From Pisa — 30 minutes, from €4
Lucca is just 30 minutes from Pisa by train — one of the most natural pairings in Tuscany. If you’re already doing Pisa, adding Lucca as an afternoon extension costs almost nothing in additional travel time or money. Tickets from €4.
From Cinque Terre — 1.5 hours, from €10
Lucca connects naturally to a Cinque Terre itinerary via La Spezia — an underused combination that gives you two of Tuscany’s finest experiences in the same trip.
From Siena — 1.5 hours by bus/train
A longer connection requiring a change but worth it for travelers building a full Tuscany circuit.
Getting Around Lucca
Lucca’s historic center is contained within its walls — approximately four square miles, easily walkable in 20 minutes from one end to the other. No car is needed or useful inside the walls. The train station is on the south side of the city, just outside the walls — a five-minute walk brings you through one of the old city gates and into the medieval center.
One Day in Lucca: The Perfect Itinerary
Start: Rent a Bike and Ride the Walls — €5/hour
The single best way to begin a day in Lucca and one of the finest free-ish experiences in all of Tuscany.
The Renaissance walls encircling Lucca are not just fortifications — they are a 2.6-mile elevated promenade wide enough to have been converted into a tree-lined public park running the entire perimeter of the city. Locals jog here in the morning. Families cycle here on weekends. Visitors discover one of the most pleasant and unusual urban walks in Italy.
Riding the full circuit takes 10–15 minutes on a bike. Walking takes 45 minutes to an hour. The views from the walls — outward over the Tuscan countryside and inward over the terracotta rooftops and church towers of the medieval city — are beautiful in both directions.
Bike rental: Amici Bici on the southwest side of town rents bikes for €5/hour — one of the best value experiences in Tuscany. Tandems, children’s bikes, and regular city bikes all available.
Pro tip: Start your day on the walls before the city wakes up. Early morning light over the Tuscan hills from the top of the ramparts is one of those travel moments that justifies the trip entirely.
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro — Free
The single most extraordinary piazza in Lucca and one of the most architecturally unique public spaces in Italy.
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro is built directly on the footprint of a Roman amphitheater dating to the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. As the city developed over the centuries, medieval buildings were constructed over and around the ancient structure — absorbing its elliptical shape so completely that the piazza today retains the exact oval form of the original arena, surrounded on all sides by buildings that incorporate Roman stonework into their foundations.
The result is a perfectly elliptical piazza enclosed by multi-story medieval and Renaissance facades, accessed through four archway gates positioned where the amphitheater’s original entrances stood. There is genuinely nowhere else like it in Italy.
In the evenings the piazza fills with outdoor restaurant tables, live music, children playing, and locals gathering — one of the most magical atmospheres in Tuscany. Come for an aperitivo or stay for dinner and watch the piazza come alive around you.
Via Fillungo — Free
Lucca’s main commercial street, running north through the historic center from near Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. Via Fillungo is lined with boutique shops, historic cafes, antique dealers, and art galleries — the best street for browsing in the city and a good indicator of Lucca’s character: stylish, local, unhurried.
Look up as you walk — the street has several fine examples of Liberty-style (Italian Art Nouveau) architecture from the early 20th century, including the ornate facade of the former Teatro del Giglio.
The Art Scene — Free to browse
One of the most overlooked aspects of Lucca is how seriously it takes contemporary art alongside its historic heritage. Art galleries and studios occupy storefronts throughout the city center — paintings, sculpture, photography, ceramics, and mixed media from local and regional artists displayed in spaces that are genuinely browsable at no charge.
During certain seasons, major landmarks get repurposed as exhibition spaces. The Duomo di San Martino has previously hosted large-scale art markets showcasing dozens of local artists — an extraordinary setting for a contemporary exhibition. Check current programming at the Lucca tourism website before your visit.
Cathedral of San Martino (Duomo di Lucca) — Free/Small fee for some areas
Lucca’s magnificent Romanesque cathedral sits on Piazza San Martino in the southwest quadrant of the historic center. The facade is one of the finest examples of Pisan Romanesque architecture in Tuscany — three tiers of marble arcading with intricately carved columns, each slightly different from the next, creating a jewel-box exterior that rewards close examination.
Inside, the cathedral houses the Volto Santo — a wooden crucifix of great religious significance to Lucca, believed by medieval Tuscans to have been carved by Nicodemus as a true likeness of Christ. The relic has been venerated in Lucca since the 8th century and remains the spiritual centerpiece of the cathedral.
Free to enter the main church. A small fee applies for the sacristy and specific chapels.
Clock Tower (Torre delle Ore) — €5
Lucca’s medieval clock tower offers the finest elevated view inside the city walls. Climb the steep wooden staircase to the summit for a panoramic view over the rooftops, the elliptical outline of Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, and the Tuscan countryside beyond the walls. Entry is €5 — good value for the perspective it gives on the city’s layout.
Orto Botanico di Lucca — €3
A botanical garden inside the city walls, established in 1820 as part of the University of Lucca. Small, tranquil, and almost entirely unvisited by tourists — a perfect place to spend a quiet 30 minutes in the middle of a busy sightseeing day. Entry is €3.
Porta Santa Maria — Free
One of the original gates in Lucca’s city walls — a monumental Renaissance archway on the north side of the city that gives you the best sense of the walls’ scale and construction. Walk through it, then turn around and look back at the city — the view of the towers and rooftops framed by the gate is one of the classic Lucca photographs.
Lucca Summer Festival — from €40 (June–July only)
If your visit falls between June and July, Lucca hosts one of the most impressive concert series in Italy. The Lucca Summer Festival brings major international artists to Piazza Napoleone for outdoor concerts every Saturday throughout the festival period. Past headliners have included artists across rock, pop, and jazz genres drawing audiences from across Europe.
Tickets sell out quickly — check current lineups and book in advance at luccasummerfestival.it. The combination of a world-class concert in a medieval Tuscan piazza is genuinely unforgettable.
Where to Eat in Lucca on a Budget
Lucca’s food scene punches well above its size. Tuscan cuisine here is traditional and ingredient-focused — fresh pasta, local olive oil, seasonal vegetables, and the area’s excellent white wines. Prices are notably lower than Florence or the tourist-heavy Cinque Terre.
Osteria Parlascio Lucca A well-regarded traditional osteria serving classic Lucchese and Tuscan dishes in a warm, unfussy setting. The fresh pasta is made in-house daily. Budget €15–22 for a full meal with wine.
Buca di Sant’Antonio One of the oldest and most celebrated restaurants in Lucca — established in 1782 and still going strong. The menu is a masterclass in traditional Tuscan cooking: farro soup, rabbit with olives, tordelli Lucchesi (the city’s signature stuffed pasta). Slightly pricier than the other options but worth it for one special meal. Reservations recommended.
Da Rosolo A popular spot known for creative interpretations of Tuscan classics in a relaxed setting. Good wine list, reasonable prices, and a genuinely local crowd.
Osteria da Pasqualino Gubitosa A neighborhood osteria with an unpretentious atmosphere and consistently good, affordable Tuscan food. The daily specials board reflects what’s fresh and seasonal — always the best guide to ordering in a place like this.
I Gelati di Piero Lucca’s most beloved gelateria — a local institution serving some of the finest gelato in Tuscany. The flavors rotate with the seasons and the quality is exceptional. Non-negotiable on any Lucca visit. Budget €2–4.
San Colombano A full-service restaurant and cocktail bar positioned along the city walls — one of the most atmospheric dining settings in Lucca. Better suited for aperitivo or dinner than lunch, but the location alone is worth the visit for at least a drink.
Lucca Budget Breakdown
| Expense | Cost |
|---|---|
| Train from Florence (return) | €18–24 |
| Bike rental — walls circuit (2 hours) | €10 |
| Clock Tower entry | €5 |
| Botanical Garden entry | €3 |
| Lunch (osteria) | €15–22 |
| Gelato at I Gelati di Piero | €2–4 |
| Aperitivo at Piazza dell’Anfiteatro | €5–10 |
| Lucca Summer Festival concert (optional) | €40–80 |
| Total (without concert) | €58–78 |
| Total (with concert) | €98–158 |
Lucca is one of the most affordable full-day experiences in Tuscany. The defining experience — cycling the walls — costs €10 for two hours. Most of the best sights are free.
Lucca Travel Tips
- Rent a bike, don’t skip it — the wall circuit on a bike is the defining Lucca experience. Even if you’re not a cyclist, the flat, wide pathway makes it accessible for virtually everyone
- Arrive by train, not car — driving into the ZTL zone inside the walls results in automatic fines. The train station is a five-minute walk from the main gate
- Book Buca di Sant’Antonio in advance — it’s been operating since 1782 for a reason and tables fill up, especially on weekends
- Combine with Pisa — the 30-minute train connection makes Lucca and Pisa a natural pairing for a single day out from Florence
- Check the Summer Festival lineup early — if your dates overlap with June or July, book festival tickets weeks or months in advance
- Visit Piazza dell’Anfiteatro in the evening — the afternoon and evening atmosphere when the restaurants open their outdoor tables is the finest version of this extraordinary space
- The 100 churches claim is real — Lucca genuinely has approximately 100 churches within its walls. Most are small and many are locked, but the sheer density of religious architecture in four square miles is extraordinary — keep count as you walk
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Lucca worth visiting? Absolutely — Lucca is one of the most underrated cities in Italy and consistently surprises visitors who make the detour. The intact Renaissance walls, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, the art scene, and the food are all exceptional. For travelers who find Florence overwhelming, Lucca offers a more intimate and authentic Tuscan experience at lower cost and with far fewer crowds.
How do you get from Florence to Lucca? By direct train from Florence Santa Maria Novella in approximately 1.5 hours. Tickets start from €9 booked in advance at trenitalia.com. Trains run regularly throughout the day making Lucca one of the most flexible day trips from Florence.
Is Lucca or Siena better for a day trip from Florence? Both are excellent and offer distinctly different experiences. Siena is larger with more famous landmarks (Piazza del Campo, Torre del Mangia, the Palio tradition) and a more dramatic hilltop setting. Lucca is smaller, less crowded, more affordable, and has the unique experience of cycling the city walls. Travelers who want a quieter, more local experience tend to prefer Lucca. If time allows, both are worth visiting.
How long do you need in Lucca? One full day is ideal and sufficient to cycle the walls, explore the historic center, visit the main sights, and eat well. Two days allows for a more relaxed pace and time to explore the surrounding Tuscan countryside. A half day is possible from Pisa given the 30-minute connection.
What is Lucca most famous for? Lucca is most famous for its intact Renaissance city walls — 2.6 miles of ramparts wide enough to have been converted into a tree-lined cycling and walking path. The city is also known for Piazza dell’Anfiteatro (built on a Roman amphitheater), its extraordinary concentration of churches (approximately 100 within the walls), and the Lucca Summer Festival which brings major international artists to the city each summer.
Is Lucca expensive? Lucca is one of the most affordable cities in Tuscany. Bike rental runs €5/hour, most sights are free or under €5, and restaurant prices are lower than Florence or the Cinque Terre. A full day including transport from Florence, bike rental, sightseeing, lunch, and gelato is achievable for €60–80.
What is tordelli Lucchesi? Tordelli are Lucca’s signature stuffed pasta — similar in shape to tortellini but larger, traditionally filled with meat, herbs, and breadcrumbs, and served with a rich meat ragù. They are unique to Lucca and the surrounding area and should be on every visitor’s plate. Buca di Sant’Antonio serves one of the finest versions in the city.
Planning a trip to Lucca or Tuscany? Reach out at hello@outofmanhattan.com — we’re happy to help with any questions before you go.
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